Buying 2nd Hand Bike

Just in case you can't get a bike savvy friend to tag along, here are some tips I stole from somewhere (lazy to type out myself) that'll give you an idea as to what to look out for when you go viewing bikes


Look at it!
Don't just start the engine and take it round the block. Start examining the front end and work your way through to the tail light. Note every single fault you see on a piece of paper (so you don't forget) and also note its likely cost.


Looking at the bike first will also allow the engine to cool slightly, if the seller has warmed it up before you arrived, and engines should always be started from cold just to see if they do start easily!


1) Front tyre:
Should have plenty of tread. Look for cuts and gashes. Budget S$40 - 150 for a replacement (according to model)


2) Brakes:
Check thickness of disc pads by squinting down the caliper. Budget S$20 a set for replacements (ie: S$40 for a double disc front end).
Drum brakes - see if the adjuster at the brake end has been fully wound in. If so, the linings are close to the limit. Again, budget S$20 a set for new linings.


3) Forks:
Squint at them sideways to make sure they are straight and parallel. If not, the bike has been in a crash, and the frame may be bent as well.


Look for any oil leaks from the seals and signs of pitting on the fork stanchions (the polished bits) themselves. People sometimes replace the seals but leave the pitting and the pits will wear out new seals in days. Budget S$10 per seal (if you do the work yourself) and S$70 for full servicing per stanchion.


4) Head race bearings:
If the bike has a centre stand get someone to push down the back of the bike to lift the front wheel off the ground. If not, pull the bike towards you on the side stand to lift the front wheel. Turn the bars gently. If you feel a notch, or worse still, several, the head races are shot and need replacement. New races will cost about S$30 (again, depends on bike model) and mean stripping down the front end to fit them. A dealer will charge about S$100 for the whole job.


5) Lock stops:
These are the lugs welded to the steering head that stop the bars turning before they bash into the tank. If the bike has been dropped or crashed, they will be bent or otherwise damaged. This is a danger sign!


6) Bar ends, mirrors, lever ends:
Look for scrape marks as a sign that the bike's been down the road. These are easy and cheap to replace, so don't take an absence of scrapes as a sign that the bike's never been dropped.


7) Bodywork:
If it's non-standard, be suspicious: it might have had a respray after a crash. In any case, non-standard paint generally knocks down the resale value of a bike.


8) Frame:
On alloy beam frames look for any signs of deformation where the rails bend towards the headstock. Alloy is softer than steel and much harder to fix. Any signs of damage - walk away


9) Rear suspension:
Grab the rear tyre and try and move it from side to side. Play here means wear in the rear suspension bearings. This can be easy or difficult to fix, depending on how complex the rear end is and whether the bearings will be all seized and rusted into place. Assume the worst.


Bounce on the seat. A dry creaking noise from the suspension indicates worn and seized linkages. This can cost up to S$150 to fix. The rear end should also bounce once, returning to its former position. If it boings up and down two or three times, or just sags, the rear shock(s) is/are worn out. This will cost at least S$250 and maybe as much as S$800 to replace with a decent aftermarket unit on a big bike. Twin-shock bikes are cheaper, but still allow S$150 - 200.


10) Rear tyre:
Should have plenty of tread. Look for cuts and gashes. Budget S$40-S$150 for a replacement, according to size of bike!


11) Rear brakes:
Check and budget as per front


12) Rear wheel bearings:
Grab top and bottom of rear wheel and try to move it from side to side. If it does rock slightly, the rear wheel bearings are shot. Easy job, but still budget S$20 for replacements


13) Chain; sprockets:
Look at the wear indicators (if fitted) and the chain adjuster marks (if not). If the rear wheel is pulled far back on the adjusters, the chain is worn out.


See if you can pull a link off the rear sprocket. if you can, it's shot.
A dry slack rusty chain will also cast doubt over how the rest of the bike has been looked after.
Look for wear and hooking on the sprocket teeth. A new chain will cost S$70-80 for a big bike. A chain and sprocket set will cost over S$200! More if you intend to use gold-chain.


14) Engine:
Before starting, look for any signs of oil leaks and the presence of gasket cement (usually red, sometimes clear/white). If you see gasket goo oozing from joints, walk away. The engine has been rebuilt by a careless motodiam. The Japanese don't use the stuff except on crankcase joints and sometimes on camshaft end caps, after all. Even then, they use it very sparingly. Someone who's slapping the stuff around like cement is too tight to buy proper gaskets, and too careless to worry. Gasket goo is good stuff, but excess goo can get sucked into the lube system and filter and block them, and wreck the engine. It just isn't worth the risk.
It should start instantly. If it churns away on the starter for ages before firing, or if the starter rattles and clunks, just walk away. Again, it's not worth the risk.


Let the engine warm up properly. There should be no rattles. Rattles from the top end indicate camshaft or camchain wear. This can be expensive to fix.


Rattles or rumbles from the bottom end of the engine indicate crankshaft or main bearing wear. This can be very expensive to fix. Walk away.


When test riding, rev the engine hard in as many gears as you can, then shut the throttle off, go down hard on the over-run, and whack the throttle open again. If it's going to jump out of gear, this is when it will do it.


Also, as you whack it open after going down on the over-run, look behind you for smoke. This action forces oil into the bores. A little puff of smoke is normal. A cloud isn't, and means the rings and/or valve guide seals are worn.


See if it steers properly hands-off. Beware wobbles! If it shows a reluctance to turn in one direction and a tendency to dive into another, the frame is probably bent from an accident. (only to be attempted by an experienced rider)


Try the brakes, hard, several times. Make sure you aren't being tailgated when you do this....
When you get back, listen again to the engine. It should sound quieter and sweeter than it did when it was started from cold.


15) Electrics:
Check every single function. If you have a multimeter, put it across the battery terminals and measure. It should read about 12.5v and rise to maybe 14.5v as the revs rise. If it doesn't, or if it shoots up past 20v, the regulator/rectifier is fried and maybe the alternator with it. Cost: maybe S$100 for a reg/rec and S$50 for a rewound alternator.


If you haven't a multimeter, turn the lights on and see if they brighten when the engine is revved. It won't tell you if the reg/rec is fritzed, but it will tell you the alternator is working.


16) Paperwork:
The registration document or logbook is vital. It tells you everything you need to know. It should bear the bike's registration number, the engine number, the frame number, the colour. Check all of these. Be very suspicious if there's a discrepancy. Engine and/or frame numbers not tallying mean it's almost certainly stolen. On no account believe the "I'm selling it for a mate" or "I haven't got around to changing the logbook" stories. This may not matter to you, but it will probably mean that he's working on a profit margin and will not be amenable to offers. The logbook also carries the name and address of the last owner and the date the bike last changed hands. The newer log card version only carries the name and address of the current owner. If this was very recently, be suspicious. Why is the seller getting rid of it so fast? hhhmmmm...


ON NO ACCOUNT BUY A BIKE WITHOUT A LOGBOOK/LOGCARD. DO NOT ACCEPT PHOTOCOPIES.


If someone says he does his own maintenance, ask him what the valve clearances should be or what grade of oil he uses - competent mechanics know these details. Ask if he has a manual. If not, how does he do the work? If so, oily thumbprints on the relevant pages are a good sign (but oily thumbprints on pages detailing, for example, gearbox rebuilds, may not be!)


17) Haggling:
Tot up the cost of every single worn or damaged component you have noticed, using the guide above. Compare the resultant figure to the cost of an equivalent bike in a dealer's price. Point out that the dealer will sell the bike with decent tyres, brakes, etc, plus a warranty. You want to aim for a price that's 20% less than what the dealer is asking, when all is said and done. If a lot of work needs to be done, make that 30%, to cover the hassle factor. If the seller can't see the logic of your arguments, walk away. You might as well buy from a another dealer.


18) Accessories:
Some add to the value of the bike: most don't. Almost every BMW ever sold comes with panniers/box - they're worth less if they aren't. A Harley that's got the usual desirable mods done - carb, pipe, brakes etc. - will fetch more than one that doesn't. To a lesser degree this applies to some Italian bikes as well. Apart from these exceptions, extra money spent on tuning, go-faster, handle-better, look-neater, weigh-less mods will not add one penny to the value. They may even detract from it. On some Japanese bikes (Yamaha FJ1200, 900 Diversion, Honda VFR750, Honda Africa Twin 750) a decent luggage kit may add S$150 - 300 to the value.


To sum up, you can spend five thousand dollars on gold-plating a Hayabusa or an R1, but you won't sell it for five thousand more than an unplated one. Get it?


19) If humanly possible, take someone with you when you buy:
A sceptical mate will not be blinded by the shiny paint and the "I-wannit-now" syndrome, and may save you a fortune. Enough said.


20) Finally ......
Make sure you read through every paper you sign and don't forget to check and see that there's some form of black and white guarantee on the bike (for at least a month). Changing ownership of a bike can be done directly at the LTA with both parties present (or get hold of either one's IC) and insurance transfer can also be done at the insurance office itself. Some people go through bike shops which charge a ridiculous amount! So be warned...

Yamaha Tenere 1200

Zulu Watch Bands

I never take my watch off, and this watch band has held up through two years of hiking, yard work, showers, swimming, etc. The original british grey nylon has weathered a bit, but the stainless steel hardware still looks great, and there is no fraying or visible wear on the tough nylon strap. I have the two-buckle version, but there is a a four-buckle version for extra security. The long tail of the strap doubles back through the keepers and stays out of the way. I never liked the way rubber straps feel on my skin, but the nylon in this band has never irritated or chafed.

Zulu Watch Bands

Citizen Men's Eco-Drive Chronograph Canvas Watch

I've been wearing a Citizen Eco-Drive watch for about four years. The watch is solar powered. It doesn't require sunlight exclusively, and can create power even from artificial lighting. In the four years I've owned it, it's never stopped running. When I was shopping for a watch I wanted an analog face, and I wanted solid water resistance for surfing, and other wet outdoor pursuits. It needed a basic timer function and a date. And I didn't want to spend a lot of money. At about $130, with water resistance to 100 meters, the low-end Citizen Eco-Drive fit the bill perfectly.


It's the most basic men's model, which comes with a cheap canvas strap. In fact my only complaint is this cheap watchband. It's a faux military canvas that was too small for my wrist. I tried a few different bands, but finally settled on the previously reviewed Zulu watchband. The best thing about the Zulu band, which wasn't mentioned in the original review, is that the buckle can be adjusted to rest on the inside of your wrist, rather than the traditional underside of the wrist. This allows me unrivaled comfort while working at the computer.


I'm an occasional rock climber, and the face of the watch has sustained a couple of very minor scratches. The special glow-in-the-dark hands of the watch works wonderfully all through the night. Combined with the Zulu band, it's likely the combination I'll continue to use until they quit making one or the the other.

Men & The Women That Rule Them

The average man's life consists of:
Twenty years of having his mother ask him where he is going,
Forty years of having his wife ask the same question;
and at the end, the mourners wondering too.

Men & Liberated Women

When we are born, our mothers get the compliments and the flowers.
When we are married, our brides get the presents and the publicity.
When we die, our widows get the life insurance.
What do women want to be liberated from?

Sharing Mobile Broadband Connection

For Step By Step Try This

I actually explained this on Yahoo Answers! a little while back. The guy's response was "Oh my god, THANK YOU. Worked perfectly." Something about that gave me a hint that others might need this kind of info. So, I revamped it to a bit.

Here's what you'll need:
1. A laptop
2. A broadband card (or internal mobile broadband radio)
3. A little bit of time

The steps are different though depending on if you're using Vista or XP. If you're using a Mac, you're outside my territory. Grab a cup of mocha. You just might need it. Here we go.

Here's the Vista steps:
1. Start Button
2. Control Panel
3. (search for Network) click on Network and Sharing Center
4. Under tasks, click on Manage Network Connections (not to be confused with manage wireless networks)
5. Locate your broadband adapter's connection and right click it
6. Click Properties
7. Click on the Sharing Tab
8. Check the box "Allow other users to connect through this computer's connection"
9. There should be a drop down box that lets you select the Wireless Connection as the way you wish to share. Click ok twice (until boxes are gone)
*phew...breathe if you've come this far. Might not take long but it feels that way typing this.
10. Return to the Network and Sharing Center.
11. In the left hand column under Tasks, select "Set up a connection or network"
12. Click Setup a Wireless Ad Hoc (Computer to Computer) network
13. Give it a name
14. Select form of encryption. Can be anything but for sake of simplicity let's say it's WEP. If you choose it to be so, it must be a 5 character password or 13 characters. Make one up.
15. Back to Network and Sharing Center. Click on "Connect to a network". You should see the network you created. If it says waiting on users to connect...then your friend's laptop should be able to see it. Put in the password and hop on.
If it can't see it, then double click the ad hoc network on your computer to "connect to it" (activating it) then see if she can see it. Also, if it's not working, you may need to disconnect the broadband adapter and reconnect it.

The steps for Windows XP are fundamentally similar.

I've found this to be really helpful if I have a friend come over. I usually have one setup and share the password with them. For them, it's just like looking for a WiFi network. What's great about it is that it's actually a bit safer than WiFi because the area that your laptop can broadcast is much smaller (about the size of a living room aka 30 feet). In other words, snoopers from the street or next door can't sniff out your connection.